Sunday, April 27, 2014

We Sing with Sinatra and Hide with Capone at the Green Mill

As mentioned in the previous post, we had a busy weekend.  Fortunately part of that business was getting to see our good friends, Meghan and Grant, both of whom are completing residency programs right now.  They had a week off and decided to spend it vacationing in our fair (that week, at least) city of Chicago.  We caught up with them the last weekend, capping off their visit with a night of jazz and drinks at the legendary Green Mill.

The Green Mill opened as Pop Morse's Roadhouse in 1907.  A few years later it was rechristened the Green Mill Gardens after the Moulin Rouge in Paris.  (Moulin Rouge translates to "red mill".)  It was a popular hangout for actors and filmmakers working at the nearby Essenay Studios (The Hollywood of the Midwest), including Charlie Chaplin.  During Prohibition, on of Al Capone's men, Jack McGurn, became part-owner, making the club a popular speakeasy for Capone and his associates.  Capone's favorite booth still exists, affording Capone and patrons a clear view of both the front and back entrances.  A network of tunnels underneath the club and easily accessible from Capone's booth allowed him to escape the authorities.  Capone's favorite singer, Joe E. Lewis, sang at the Green Mill until he took a higher paying job down the street.  McGurn threatened him and ultimately attacked him violently, though Lewis survived, an incident immortalized in the film, The Joker is Wild (1957), starring Frank Sinatra.  Though he himself never performed, he spent time at the Green Mill researching the role.  Other jazz luminaries, like Billie Holiday, Tommy Dorsey, Al Jolson, and Benny Goodman, did play the Green Mill.

After a period of struggle in the 1960's and '70's, the jazz club was revived in the 1980's and now hosts jazz artists from a wide variety of styles every night, much like it did in its early days.  It is patterned after Clark Monroe's Uptown House, a popular 1940's club in Harlem, and also is known for its Sunday jazz brunch and the Uptown Poetry Slam, a Sunday night mainstay since 1986.

Obviously we were excited to go to the Green Mill for its history and (for Michel) its connection to Sinatra.  Since Meghan and Grant were already planning on going, we took them up on their invitation to tag along.  We arrived half an hour before the combo started playing, payed the cover fee, and snagged a booth on the side across from the bar.  (On further investigation, I believe we were only one booth off from Capone's preferred spot.)  We ordered cocktails and chatted until Meghan and Grant arrived just in time to order before the show.  It was a really great quintet, and they were scheduled to play from 8:00 p.m. to midnight.  And by the way, you will totally get shushed by the bartender or bouncer if you talk above a whisper while the bands are playing.  We stayed for the first set, but as we were getting up for Easter church the next morning, we left after that.  It was a really great time, and, as Michel said, it's probably the coolest place we've ever been.





 For my birthday, Michel made me little laminated recipe cards for my favorite cocktail, the Mexican Martini (from Trudy's in Austin.)  The bartender made one for me, though the waitress did not hesitate to show her irritation at my out of the ordinary request.


 Reminiscent of our pictures from the Josh Groban concert!

Good friends!


Elizabeth and Michel Romantically Scavenger Hunt around River North

Last weekend was a busy one.  Our friends, Meghan and Grant, had spent the week vacationing in Chicago, and we met them for dinner at Fountainhead on Friday before all heading to Michel's end of semester reading at The Book Cellar and the after-celebration at Ricochet's, the diviest dive bar known to divedom...or at least Lincoln Square.  We met our other friends, Lauren and Mike, along with their adorable little girl Ayla, for breakfast Saturday morning, and I followed that up with cupcakes at the new cupcake shop in Lincoln Square with Charlotte.  (Note:  Flirty Cupcakes is delicious.  Completely different from our normal cupcake shop, Sweet Sensations on Montrose, so fortunately we are simply expanding our cupcake horizons rather than changing them.)  That afternoon we did a scavenger hunt around the River North neighborhood, ran to the store, and finished the evening at the Green Mill with Meghan and Grant (more on that in another post.)  It made Easter Sunday blissfully relaxing.

However, this post is only about one of those things: The Scavenger Hunt!  Yes, this is another one of those How About We date activities, and I'm pleased to report that it redeemed our opinion of the website following the disappointment of our afternoon tea.

The scavenger hunt is organized by a website called Stray Boots, which has created scavenger hunts in several cities across the country, with more coming soon.  Chicago has about 7 options to choose from, and we chose the River North option.  River North, the area just north of the river and downtown and just west of Michigan Avenue, is an area that we've not really explored in any depth.  The hunt was also a "romantic couples hunt", so we thought it might be a fun date day. 

Our hunt started on Chicago Ave. near the Water Tower.  Phone at the ready, we pulled up our first clue about a romantic chocolate shop.  Our task was to find the chocolate shop and determine the nationality of the Greek founder's wife.  Across the street we saw Leonidas Chocolate Cafe.  We wandered in to a beautiful, old-style European chocolate shop, founded by Leonidas and his Belgian wife.  It was right place!  I ordered a delicious macaron, and Michel ordered the Mayan hot chocolate.  He's declared that the Battle of the Chocolate Shops: Hot Chocolate Edition may have to be restarted.

Romantic Level:  High and Highly Obvious.  It's a really good chocolate shop.


Our next clue took us to Streeter's Tavern, an underground bar across the street with a giant Jenga game.  Michel wasn't paying attention when I took the picture with the bouncer.  Fun Fact:  Try to go here for drinks around 9:30 on a weeknight, this bar will be filled with 20-and-early-30-something young professionals blowing off steam to the dulcet tones of Miley Cyrus and the Backstreet Boys.  If you require a nice drink, good conversation, and a sophisticated atmosphere, look elsewhere. 

Romantic Level: If you like playing giant games in a crowded bar to nostalgic but terrible pop, high.  Otherwise, low.


Next, the hunt took us to Holy Name Cathedral, the seat of the Chicago Archdiocese of the Catholic Church.  It's ceiling is carved wood, and the entire cathedral is simply spectacular.  It is the site of Pope John Paul II's historic 1979 visit to Chicago.





Romantic Level:  High if you are getting married.


The next place we found was a gate with a giant rose.  That's all I remember.  We didn't even go into the shop, so I don't know if it connected to the rose at all.  We were instructed to take a "flirty" picture.  So we did...sort of.

Romantic Level:  Well, it's a giant rose, so...cool?  Medium-ish.


Following the giant rose, we were led to a charming little French bistro...only it wasn't the French bistro that Stray Boots thought was there.  It was Troquet, making us wonder if our charming little French brasserie with the amazing specials for croque monsieur and poutine was not so charming and individual but a chain.  This Troquet is much fancier, so while we did not resolve the potential chain status of our brasserie, we did discover that Troquet had replaced a previous bistro, LM Bistro, and, in doing so, had painted over the drawing of the Eiffel Tower that we were supposed to find.  Oh well.  Fortunately there was a waiter who had worked in both iterations who was able to help.


Romantic Level:  High.  It's a French bistro.  If that's not romantic, I don't know what is.


After this the tour took a decisive down turn when not one but two, count 'em two, clues led us to a giant McDonald's that was part of a trifecta of kitchy, tourist focus restaurants.  (We can now direct you to both the Hard Rock Cafe and Rainforest Cafe as well as this pantheon of ridiculousness that is the River North McDonald's.)  That being said, I still took the most pictures here.  


 It has a museum covering the history of McDonald's on the second floor.



In said museum we were instructed to find out what color mood rings turn when you are "happy and in love".  Blue.  Specifically dark blue.  Everyone who was a child in the '60's or '90's knows that without spending 15 minutes in a giant McDonald's.


Romantic Level:  Not at all.

 We were then instructed to find a statue of that famous four-some who sang love songs.  Well, we logically guessed that there was a Beatles statue at the Hard Rock Cafe.  We were right about the Beatles statue, but, much to the exasperation of the kind (though exasperated) Hard Rock Cafe staffer, it is not there.  It is in a shed.  In a parking lot.  Behind the McDonald's.  You can't even go in.  Not kidding.


We were instructed to take a picture.  It was hard through the glass.  Michel was having difficulties with the sun at this point in our picture taking.
Romantic Level: Pbbbth.  Thumbs down.


Our next hint directed us to the Anti-Cruelty Society where we were encouraged to go cuddle with the animals.  Unfortunately, this does not work for us because Michel is allergic to cats and dogs, and I would want to adopt every single one we played with.  The other option was to watch other people cuddling and adopting through the windows.  I am pleased to say that many of the animals were in the midst of being adopted that day.

Romantic Level:  High if you are in a position to either play with or adopt the animals, which you are all encouraged to do.


We then found our way back toward the shopping area just west of Michigan, looking for an "abstract statue of a voluptuous woman."  We decided this was it, and the picture we were instructed to take ("looking sexy"...we did not succeed) was accepted.  That being said, I have searched the City of Chicago's public art records for at least 30 minutes and have not been able to find out what this statue is or who it is by.  So if any of my art friends out there have some insight into this work, we would definitely appreciate it.


Romantic Level:  Medium.  Would have enjoyed it more if we had any idea of the identity of the piece and artist.


Next stop was Nordstrom to locate the designer who put his or her name to the perfume, "Romance."  We walked in, asked, and were told Ralph Lauren by a rather prissy perfume department person.  Nordstrom is currently under construction, so no pictures.  
Romantic Level: Um, ok?  Low.


We were beginning to think that Stray Boots had failed us, that this scavenger hunt was a waste of time, but suddenly, things began to improve.  Clues pointed us to this super cool jazz record shop, The Jazz Record Mart, filled with posters of the jazz greats like Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, and Duke Ellington, the entire Marsalis family, among others; records of all genres of American and international jazz, along with jazz-adjacent music (some classical, some Broadway and film soundtracks, even a recording of Gilbert and Sullivan's Ruddigore); and a wide variety of other resources for the jazz lover.  It's rare to find such a great record store these days, and we would love to go back and spend more time hunting through the displays to see what gems we could find. 



Romantic Level:  Hot socks!  It hits on all sixes and is hip to the jive! 


A quick jaunt next door brought us to After-Words Books.  We were supposed to find a quote from the poem "A Few Figs from Thistles" by Edna St. Vincent Millay, and we soon did so among the quotes wrapping around the columns that run through the middle of the store.  It is a gorgeous store selling new and used books, and it has an apparent penchant for slightly under-appreciated genres.  Their mythology and fairy tale selection is the best I've ever seen in a store.  It covers both the first floor and basement of its building, and we're looking forward to visiting again soon.



Romantic Level:  High, especially for book lovers.


Finally, it was time for our hunt to end at a blue house full of music.  Yes, that's right: House of Blues Chicago.  Neither of us had ever been to House of Blues in any city, and we were pleasantly surprised.  The lobby is super cool, if overrun with tourists and (apparently) school groups, and we're going to keep an eye on their performance schedule.  



Like any relationship, this scavenger hunt had its low points.  Fortunately for us, the high points more than made up for the low, and we enjoyed getting to know a neighborhood that we had been to but not spent any meaningful time in.  In fact, we enjoyed it enough that we're going to do the Lincoln Park tour with visiting friends soon.  Plus Stray Boots asked for our feedback, both on quality of the tour and on updates they needed to make, allowing us to alert them to the bistro change and the fact that McDonald's simply isn't romantic, no matter how you swing it.  It's actually a really fun time, so we encourage y'all to see if Stray Boots is doing scavenger hunts in  your city.  It's a really neat way to discover places you might not otherwise. 

Elizabeth and Michel Celebrate Easter at St. Alphonsus

Last Sunday we visited  St. Alphonsus Catholic Church, one of the main historic churches in Chicago, for Easter mass.  We had visited once before earlier in the year and had been quite impressed with the church's beauty and the quality of the choir.  St. Alphonsus was founded in 1882 to serve the booming, primarily immigrant Catholic community in the Lake View area of Chicago.  The current church building was started in 1889 and dedicated in 1897.  The church was nearly gutted in a 1950 fire and reopened in 1952.  The complex includes a school, Alphonsus Academy and Center for the Arts, that was founded along with the church and the Atheneaum Theatre, which was started as a community center, and is now a major theatre (non-religious) in the city, while still providing a home for many church functions.  The church was founded to serve the German immigrant community and has evolved along with the larger community.  It now holds two English services and a Spanish service every Sunday morning, along with a monthly German service.  We attended the English/German bilingual Easter mass, and it was lovely.  The priest gave a nice sermon, but the choir was phenomenal, performing major choral pieces in Latin, German, and English.  Additionally, the church is gorgeous with friendly parishioners, and it was a lovely setting to spend Easter morning.

These pictures were taken during our first visit to St. Alphonsus. 














Saturday, April 19, 2014

Everyone Should Go on the Architecture Tour

April 11, 2014: My parents came to visit!  It was a short trip, but we had a great time trying a few new restaurants (Bistro Campagne in Lincoln Square was a big hit), hanging out, shopping (well, my mom and I shopped, anyway), and going on the super awesome Chicago Architecture Tour courtesy of the Chicago Architecture Foundation.  (If you have booked tickets for a non-CAF boat tour, you are on the wrong tour.  Get a refund, go to the CAF, and get your tickets for the correct tour.)

The Architecture Tour is one of those touristy things that even the locals think is the coolest thing to do.  In fact, the Architecture Tour is listed as the #1 thing to do in Chicago by US News and World Report and many other publications.  I can't tell you how many people have asked us if we've gone on the Architecture Tour yet, so now the answer is officially yes.  And we will both join the litany of asking people, "Have you done the Architecture Tour yet?  You should!  It's awesome!"

Now, I should be clear.  There are lots of architecture tours put on by the CAF.  Pedway, Segway, walking, bus, all sorts of tours.  But when people talk about THE Architecture Tour, they are talking about the river cruise up the north, south, and main branches of the Chicago River through downtown Chicago.  What can be better than spending an hour and half riding lazily down the river in nice-ish weather looking at beautiful buildings?  Not much.

The day dawned bright, sunny, and warm.  We met my parents at the Water Tower near their hotel on the north end of the Mag Mile.  We took a lovely stroll down the Mag Mile to the dock at the corner of Michigan and Wacker and got in line to board the First Lady boat.  Our volunteer docent from the CAF was Barry, a slightly nerdy middle aged man who loves Chicago architecture and was one of the best boat tour docents we've ever had.  (This is high praise.  My family likes boat tours a lot.)

The weather quickly turned overcast, the clouds almost black at times, and the wind was blowing, causing a noticeable drop in temperatures near the end of the tour when we were on the lake.  However, it created a very dramatic backdrop to Chicago's skyline and architectural gems.  I don't remember what all of the buildings are, but here are plenty of shots to give you a taste of what you'll see on the tour.

 On the boat!  Without jackets!

 Mom and Dad!

 Trump International

 The fire boat!

 The Wrigley Building

 The Chicago Tribune Tower


 The underside of the bridges looked cool!






 I liked this one a lot.




 Merchandise Mart!  (Candor Headquarters in the Divergent series)



 Boeing Headquarters

Now we head from the main branch to the north branch of the river.

 Bridge that is almost always left up.  The railroad lowers it and drives a handcart across is once a year to retain control of this particular bridge.




Now down to the south branch.
Boeing again!

 The Civic Opera House, home of the Lyric Opera of Chicago.  It is massive!  And you can live in apartments above the theatre!  Michel, why didn't we think of that?



The former Mercantile Exchange

This is an apartment community in an S shape.

Now it's time for the many views of the Sears Tower.  (Yes, I know it's technically the Willis Tower, but it will always be the Sears Tower to me.  Barry even took a vote of the passengers to find out what he should call it--Sears Tower won.)








Those white things hanging out at the top are those observation decks that you can walk out on and look straight down to the street.


Back to the main branch and out to the lake.


 Though we didn't find this out on the tour, this gold-covered building is the Carbide and Carbon Building.  

 Wrigley Building again

 The Tribune again

 The building with the yellow dome in the back is the Intercontinental Hotel.



 The official end of the river.  Lake Michigan is on the other side.


All in all, it was a fantastic tour, and we highly recommend everyone do it!!!